By Aaron Tanner
Europe is known for its innovative culinary dishes. But you don’t need to buy an expensive plane ticket to hop across the pond for great meal. Look no further than downtown Athens (Alabama, that is).
Located in a historic building once occupied by a funeral parlor and an optometrist’s office, The Salty Cod is a dining concept that includes a British-themed pub, a dessert and coffee cafe and a butcher shop.
Walking out of Athens and into England begins with an authentic British telephone booth outside the pub’s front door, where photo opportunities abound. Inside, two bars feature British, European and domestic ales, beers, ciders, spirits and wines as well as a cocktail menu; soccer (or American football) and rugby matches are on the telly.
There is a replica of a confessional snug that female patrons once used for drinking, when it was not proper for a woman to be seen in a pub. It’s now used for private groups, while a second British telephone booth sits on the back patio.
The intimate dining area called the Paddington Room separates dining patrons from those excitedly cheering on sports teams. Televisions are not the only place in the pub where one can catch the action. At The Salty Cod’s open kitchen, customers can watch and interact with trained chefs who cook the meals while getting close to the food’s fresh ingredients.
“The customers can see what goes into preparing each dish,” executive chef and general manager Kristen Caroselli says.
The menu at the Salty Cod is a mix of British, Irish, and Mediterranean fare, which Caroselli says “brings some European culture to downtown Athens.” One popular item is the bangers and mash, Cumberland sausages ground in-house at the Poppy and Parliament in nearby Huntsville, served with mashed potatoes and topped with a gravy made with onion, thyme, and Guinness Beer.
Another popular dish is the spuds and beef, potatoes, and corned beef smashed into a giant patty, fried and topped with buffalo mozzarella and a tomato chorizo sauce. There are also seasonal menu items that use fresh and local ingredients depending on the time of year as well as steaks, chicken, and seafood from the butcher shop available as entrees.
The pub’s best seller is British fish and chips, which uses fresh Atlantic cod. Just like in London, the fish is battered, cut in-house, cooked in an authentic fryer from Great Britain, and served on old newspapers with hot and crispy chips, which Americans call fries, all cooked in beef fat for a savory taste.
Each order of fish and chips comes with a side of tartar sauce and a choice of curry sauce or mushy peas, all made in-house. Instead of beer battering the fish, the kitchen uses tempura batter that is light and fluffy and, as Caroselli adds, “has a nice crunch without oversaturating the delicate flavor of the cod.”
After dinner, enjoy a gelato, pastry, or cake imported from Italy either at the pub or next door at the dessert shop. Even the coffee is imported from Italy and pairs well with a slice of tiramisu or a limoncello cake stuffed with lemon curd. Each gelato is made with all-natural ingredients without dyes for a healthier option, while splurging on sweet treats from across the Atlantic.
The Salty Cod is the second concept restaurant opened by owners Shane Brown of England and Chef Barry O’Connor of Ireland. After opening their first location, The Poppy and Parliament in Huntsville, the two saw a need for a fine dining establishment in Athens and hoped to replicate their original success by opening another British Pub in the small but rapidly growing north Alabama town.
During a chance encounter, O’Connor met Caroselli at a high-end steakhouse in Tuscaloosa and was impressed with her experience working at the USDA and credentials from a top culinary school. Caroselli joined as the executive chef and general manager of the Poppy and Parliament in 2020. In September 2023, Brown, O’Connor and Caroselli opened the Salty Cod and Caroselli now oversees both pubs.
Once found only in larger cities such as Huntsville and Birmingham, downtown Athens now has a vibrant dining culture, thanks to The Salty Cod and the opening of several other restaurants. “Athens has not always been a food-centric place, but the food scene has really grown here,” Caroselli says. Locals and those traveling down Interstate 65 frequent the Salty Cod as well as those shopping or attending live events downtown who need a cold drink and shade in hot weather, a family meal, date night, girlfriend’s dinner or a to-go order.
Several special menu options are available for those hosting a private or large party. Dry-aged meats can be purchased individually or in family and party packs at the butcher shop, which also offers cooking classes for those eager to prepare personal meals at home. Future plans include expanding the number of party packages and cooking classes offered while increasing the rental space available for events.
Even with her New York roots, Caroselli enjoys the Southern small-town atmosphere that Athens offers. She loves interacting with customers who have supported her since day one and helped get the word out about the pub. “They are our biggest cheerleaders,” she says. The staff at The Salty Cod makes a concerted effort to ensure patrons have a great time and receive quality service no matter when they come.
“As a team, we are so focused on the customer and making sure the customer experience is great no matter who is serving them,” Caroselli says.
The Salty Cod
309 W. Market Street, Athens, Ala. 35611
thesaltycodal.com
256-206-8222
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday–Thursday;
11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday–Saturday;
11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.
Kitchen closes one hour before posted time.
